Is dry shampoo better than frequent washing? Is dry shampoo good for your hair? Good for you? What exactly IS dry shampoo anyway? And what’s the best way to use it?
Let’s start with the basics. Dry shampoo removes dirt and deals with greasiness using three main components: a propellant, an absorbent and an abrasive.
The common propellants (butane, isobutane, propane, alcohol, etc.) blast the other ingredients into the hair. If you are trying a DIY solution from home -- say, dabbing on some cornstarch to sop up some excess greasiness -- you may not have a propellant. But most commercial products rely on propellants to blast the other ingredients into your hair.
The most popular active ingredients are both absorbents and abrasives -- things like aluminum starch or silica. They both scour off any dirt and mop up the moisture and oily films that cover the hair or scalp. When first blown into the hair, these particles act like tiny sand-blasters and little sponges. And again, when they are brushed out, they serve as scouring pads as well as blotters.
Dry shampoo removes some excess oils and dirt, but there are downsides. First, most propellants are flammable; in the presence of an open flame, a dry shampoo would become a blowtorch!
Second, the abrasive doesn't just knock the dirt off. It sand-blasts the surface of the hair and the scalp. The grittiness of the starch or silica physically wears away the surface of the hair shaft. Using dry shampoo on a regular basis can damage your hair, wearing it away until it becomes fragile and breaks. It also can damage the cuticle and make your hair more frizz-prone.
Third, inhaling the ingredients of a dry shampoo such as talc (magnesium silicate), silica (silicon dioxide, aka sand) or cornstarch, is NOT good for you, especially if you have medical conditions that involve the lungs, such as asthma. Inhalation of cornstarch has been scientifically linked to airway inflammation, which can cause tissue damage (1). When inhaled, cornstarch also causes adhesions, and your body can have a severe inflammatory reaction that results in scarring. (2) Inhalation of silica can lead to silicosis, which can cause permanent lung damage. (3) And talc is even worse. (4)
Last, no matter how hard you brush the dry shampoo out, it leaves a residue. Small clumps of absorbents remain on the scalp, roots and hair, causing irritation, odor and a gritty feeling. Let’s face it -- a dry shampoo does not get you clean. Yes, it soaks up some excess oils and is a great stopgap when you can’t wash. But don’t over-do it!
Every body is different: some can use a dry shampoo only once between shampoos. Others can get 2 or 3 uses, sometimes a bit more if you can tolerate the residue. The real answer is “as often as you need to and can deal with the imperfect results.”
If you use a non-ionic and sulfate-free shampoo like illumai, you won’t need to use dry shampoo so often: hair stays cleaner longer and it doesn’t retain the residue from dry shampoos used between shampoos.
You are better off if you can really cleanse, especially with a gentle cleansing system like illumai. Not only will hair be truly clean and fresh, but it will be easier to manage and look better too.
You may have heard that baby powder, talc, cornstarch, baking soda or other common ingredients can deliver good results. Don’t bother! First, without the propellant, it’s very difficult to get those small particles evenly distributed on scalp and roots, where excess oils first appear. Second, these are absorbents -- and without the abrasives, they will tend to clump and leave a pesky residue. Last, and most important, they are not good for you: baking soda, without any buffers, can really irritate the scalp. And baby powder and cornstarch, if inhaled, can damage the lungs.
If you do use a dry shampoo remember these tips: